Dear Maria,
Artist jewelry for me is mostly overrated with some flashes of brilliance. Remember that artists have done jewelry for the past 100 years, and it’s never become very popular, perhaps for good reason. On the other hand, I love Calder jewelry, and this market has boomed for good reason, his pieces are real mini-sculptures. I’m a big fan of Cesar’s “compression” gold jewelry, where he crushed old gold pieces into blocks, not fashionable right now, but super-cool stuff. Tim Noble and Sue Webster made some nice work too, but if it’s a simple image stamped in gold, or a miniature version of an artist’s signature piece it borders on kitsch. That being said, I’m into kitsch, but still, there’s good kitsch and bad, for you to choose which is which!